How to cook a crown of lion's mane

Don't slice it. A crown of lion's mane wants to be torn, the way you'd handle a loaf of good bread — along its grain, into ragged pieces the size of a scallop.

Get a heavy pan properly hot with nothing in it. Lay the pieces down dry and press them gently; let the cut faces sear to a deep gold, four minutes or so, before you even think about fat. Then a knob of butter, a sprig of thyme if you have one, and baste until the edges crisp. Salt at the very end — salt too early and it weeps. Serve on toast, under a fried egg, or beside anything roasted.